Edited: Light revolver strikes...FIXED!

1
My little Taurus is having light strike issues. I had a problem with the hammer not making full contact with the cross bar. That is fixed (nearly doubled the distance the firing pin travels), but I'm having inconsistent primer strikes. Some barely tap the primer. Other times, it's a nice bowl.

Do I need to replace the hammer spring AND the trigger spring, or can I just do the hammer spring and leave the trigger spring alone?

Thanks!

EDIT: I just took this bad boy back to the range. 40 consecutive shots without a FTF. I then loaded all the prior "dud" rounds I had. 12 of 13 went "bang" on the first try. So I'm going to count that as 52 in a row. Fuck that last dud. ;)

Every primer is getting a nice, consistent "cereal bowl" dimple.

Here's what I did:

1) Replace wolf trigger spring with the factory one. Made sure it was seated securely in grip (the base plate in mine seems to like to go in only one way).
2) Replaced trigger spring with 6.5 lbs wolf spring (doesn't affect reliability, but it does make shooting nicer).
3) Filed the top of the hammer (where it meets the frame) so the hammer fully engages the transfer bar. This nearly doubled the distance the firing pin traveled. There is about a matchbook cover worth of wiggle room left.
4) Pulled the firing pin, cleaned the hole and cut one loop off the return spring. I oiled the pin, then used a cloth to wipe up everything that would come up.

Tools that are your friend in this project:
Standard (small) paper clips
Surgical hemostats
Needle nose pliers
Number 2 pencil ( cut the eraser off and use the metal tip to wedge the hammer open below the transfer bar so you don't have to disassemble the whole gun to do this job). Thank you Ticonderoga!
Last edited by senorgrand on Fri Mar 21, 2014 2:46 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: light strikes...which springs to replace?

3
senorgrand wrote:My little Taurus is having light strike issues. I had a problem with the hammer not making full contact with the cross bar. That is fixed (nearly doubled the distance the firing pin travels), but I'm having inconsistent primer strikes. Some barely tap the primer. Other times, it's a nice bowl.

Do I need to replace the hammer spring AND the trigger spring, or can I just do the hammer spring and leave the trigger spring alone?

Thanks!
Which Taurus?

Re: light strikes...which springs to replace?

4
It's a 905, DAO

I replaced the hammer spring with a Wolf when I did the hammer work. I think it's too light and I'll go back to stock. I like the new trigger spring and don't want to replace that again.

There is also some talk on the Interwebs about cutting two loops from the firing pin return spring, but I'm going to try just the hammer spring first, as getting to the firing pin looks like Royal Pain In The Ass.

No pattern on chambers. Sometimes, four of five would go. Sometimes one of five. Didn't matter if I was using clips or not.

Also shot the 19-5 today using 130g Remington 38 spc. That trigger is soooooo smooth that I accidentally had one double-tap. Even shot it one handed.
Image


"Person, woman, man, camera, TV."

Re: light strikes...which springs to replace?

5
senorgrand wrote:It's a 905, DAO

I replaced the hammer spring with a Wolf when I did the hammer work. I think it's too light and I'll go back to stock. I like the new trigger spring and don't want to replace that again.

There is also some talk on the Interwebs about cutting two loops from the firing pin return spring, but I'm going to try just the hammer spring first, as getting to the firing pin looks like Royal Pain In The Ass.

No pattern on chambers. Sometimes, four of five would go. Sometimes one of five. Didn't matter if I was using clips or not.

Also shot the 19-5 today using 130g Remington 38 spc. That trigger is soooooo smooth that I accidentally had one double-tap. Even shot it one handed.
Hammer spring is more likely, but also look very closely to make sure that there isn't some gunk left in there, though.

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