Getting started in reloading

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So didn't look like there was a sticky thread on this, probably about time it got put up.

A couple of things. I'm not, by far, the most experienced reloader on here. I'm a hack at best, but with patience, reading, and time, I've managed to figure this stuff out over the last year. I have probably reloaded 3000 or so rounds of mixed calibers, and got started at the height of the 2013 panic. This info is worth what you've paid for it.

Anyway, on to the stuff. There's usually questions on what do I need to put together to get started. Here's the starter.

1) Reloading manual: Or two. I use the Lyman's 49th, along with http://loaddata.com to pull additional load data from. Read the entire 49th or whatever book you pick up, a couple of times before plunging in. (not the info on every single load, just the front part)
2) Press: Lee is fine. Other brands can be better (Not making better ammunition, just higher quality that will last longer)
3) Scales: Some folks like analog, some like digital. They both work
4) Powder measure: The Lee dippers work fine. So do the actual powder measures like the Lee Perfect Powder Measure. Like the press, there is higher quality than Lee, but it'll make the same ammo
5) Priming system: Basic press mounted works, Lee hand priming system works better. Progressive presses have their own priming systems. They all do the same thing
6) Funnel: Cheap. Comes with some stuff, but not always. I like the scale powder funnel pan
7) Dies: I've used Lee, RCBS, and Redding. They all perform well. They are interchangeable no matter what press you buy (Almost. There is an oddball or two out there, but they are clearly marked as such)
8) Case trimmer: MUST have for rifle reloading. Lee again makes a functional setup, order each caliber separately. All in one stations are nicer from what I've seen. I use the Little Crow Ultimate Case Trimmer- but it's spendy. I also hate trimming cases so it was worth it to me.
9) Tumbler: Not a requirement. A nice to have if you like shiney brass. Cheap works well. Expensive ones probably work well too.
10) Micrometer/Calipers: I use electric, others like analog
11) Bullet Puller: Kinetic is cheap, and it works. Press mounted is nicer to have. You'll need one or the other I have both.
12) Reloading Tray/Lube: Spray on is easy, lots different choices. Careful with the One shot lube, I've had a stuck case with it
So what does a shopping list look like? Here's an example. I'll use Midway as the example vendor. Going cheapest first

Manual:
Lymans http://www.midwayusa.com/product/217655 ... -softcover $23

Press:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/807734 ... tage-press $29

Scale:
Frankford Arsenalhttp://www.midwayusa.com/product/175512 ... n-capacity $29

Powder dispenser
Lee Dippers http://www.midwayusa.com/product/943305 ... easure-kit $11

Priming system:
Lee Ram Prime http://www.midwayusa.com/product/728999 ... tage-press $12

Powder Funnel:
Lee http://www.midwayusa.com/product/974498 ... 45-caliber $4

Dies:
Lee 9mm (for example) http://www.midwayusa.com/product/140349 ... -9mm-luger $32

Case Trimmer (Rifle calibers only, can use an electric drill to make the task less tedious):
Lee (need both) http://www.midwayusa.com/product/476992 ... -lock-stud $6.49
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/107333 ... -remington $4.39

Tumbler (NOT Required, just a nice to have):
Frankford Arsenal http://www.midwayusa.com/product/587176 ... r-110-volt $38

Calipers:
Hornadyhttp://www.midwayusa.com/product/822768 ... less-steel $33

Bullet Puller:
Frankford Arsenal http://www.midwayusa.com/product/215517 ... let-puller $15.50

Reloading Tray/Lube:
Trayhttp://www.midwayusa.com/product/110254 ... lastic-red $7
Lube http://www.midwayusa.com/product/482023 ... -2-oz-tube $4

Total setup- $248

That being said, without the tumbler, you're at $210

You can just get a kit. $129 for the Lee Challenger setup- BUT you will still need the dies and trimmer, (I'd still get the Lymans as well) so it's not going to save you money.

I'll add onto this later or someone else can on the next step up.

Mods, can we sticky this?

EDIT: Whoops. Thanks SG. Missed a couple of things
Last edited by shinzen on Tue Jan 14, 2014 8:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
“Do the best you can until you know better. Then when you know better, do better.”
- Maya Angelou

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Re: Getting started in reloading

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Lube and pad for bottleneck carts and some of the heavy pistol loads (even with carbide bits)

Micrometer

Bullet puller

Loading trays

Nice write-up!

EDIT: Also check the craigslist. Once in awhile, someone will sell a whole setup. After selling the bits I didn't need and buying the bits I did need (including powder), I spent about $125.
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Re: Getting started in reloading

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Whoops. Forgot a couple of things there, thanks SG.

And agreed on craigslist/armslist/ebay. You can definitely save money by looking around- Midway doesn't have the best prices on every item either, but wanted to put together a fairly comprehensive starting point for someone just getting into it.

Also, if you're patient and only want to do a single caliber, there's also the Lee Classic Loader, affectionately known as "Whack a mole".
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/735723 ... winchester $28 and you can get started. Kind of. Still need manuals/scales/etc, but budget friendly for sure.
“Do the best you can until you know better. Then when you know better, do better.”
- Maya Angelou

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Re: Getting started in reloading

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Nice list. Lee has a detailed manual. I would also suggest the single caliber manuals ( Cabelas carries them) Also the web sites for the powders do have good reloading info. Be extremely careful of a lot of the websites done by individuals.
"Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety" Ben Franklin
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Re: Getting started in reloading

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What I will add to this is more than one reloading manual is a plus. All are good, the more the merrier, lube pads are junk they will get dirty and should be avoided at all cost. A good lanolin spray or imperial sizing wax or plane old bag balm spread with the fingers is far superior. Avoid becoming brand loyal, I have every color of the rainbow on my bench, they all have great stuff except smart reloader, I wouldn't trust their funnels to work. Everything they sell is made by Chinese slaves, and is junk. Also did I mention buy more books?
"Hillary Clinton is the finest, bravest, kindest, the most wonderful person I've ever known in my whole life" Raymond Shaw

Re: Getting started in reloading

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Avoid becoming brand loyal, I have every color of the rainbow on my bench
This is so true. I've got Lee, RCBS, Hornady, Dillon, and some other stuff on my bench. It all works. Haven't tried out the other company you mentioned, I'll take your work for it.
“Do the best you can until you know better. Then when you know better, do better.”
- Maya Angelou

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Re: Getting started in reloading

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STLWaffles wrote:When I started I skipped the manual. I had no issue finding all the information i needed freely available on the internet. I now have a couple that I picked up for $1 a piece from a local book store going out of business. I still never use them.
I can't endorse that methodology personally. Too easy to not be aware of things that are important. Particularly if just relying on some random dudes website for info. Not saying it can't be done, but it's a dangerous business. Education is critical to avoid issues like blowing up your gun or yourself.
“Do the best you can until you know better. Then when you know better, do better.”
- Maya Angelou

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Re: Getting started in reloading

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Inquisitor wrote:
STLWaffles wrote:When I started I skipped the manual. I had no issue finding all the information i needed freely available on the internet. I now have a couple that I picked up for $1 a piece from a local book store going out of business. I still never use them.
I like books :)
The best thing about the manuals are the articles before the tables that outline and explain the procedures involved.
"Hillary Clinton is the finest, bravest, kindest, the most wonderful person I've ever known in my whole life" Raymond Shaw

Re: Getting started in reloading

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Inquisitor wrote:
STLWaffles wrote:When I started I skipped the manual. I had no issue finding all the information i needed freely available on the internet. I now have a couple that I picked up for $1 a piece from a local book store going out of business. I still never use them.
I like books :)
Books are good. Shrapnel is bad.
Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it everywhere, misdiagnosing the cause, and misapplying the wrong remedies. Marx (Groucho Marx)

Re: Getting started in reloading

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eelj wrote:What I will add to this is more than one reloading manual is a plus. All are good, the more the merrier, lube pads are junk they will get dirty and should be avoided at all cost. A good lanolin spray or imperial sizing wax or plane old bag balm spread with the fingers is far superior.
A note on manuals: the load data often differ from powder manufacturer specs. Best to go to the OEM pages and start at their lowest load for your ammo configuration.

Lanolin + IPA = very good, cheap case lube.

One thing that's hard to find anywhere is quantitative values for appropriate amount of crimping - I have developed my own procedure for this through much trial and error.
I am Tobermory's cat

Re: Getting started in reloading

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As most rifle cartridges don't head space on the case mouth, not sure case length trimmer is necessary, especially for rifle rounds. More useful in auto-pistol calibers that actually do headspace off the case mouth.

Reloaded for almost 40 years now and haven't felt the need.

Used to only hear about it with hyper bench-rest crowd, but now it seems to be talked about as a "necessity". Not sure exactly why that came about.
"If the misery of the poor be caused not by the laws of nature, but by our institutions, great is our sin” – Charles Darwin

Re: Getting started in reloading

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Doc, depending on your sizing practices, cases can stretch to the point that the neck extends forward far enough forward in the chamber to lack radial clearance at the case mouth and cause elevated pressures.

That's why max case length and often a trim-to length are standard information given in many manuals for any cartridge listed.

I'm glad you've never had a problem, but I don't think such a cavalier position is good advice for new reloaders.

Re: Getting started in reloading

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Fukshot wrote:Doc, depending on your sizing practices, cases can stretch to the point that the neck extends forward far enough forward in the chamber to lack radial clearance at the case mouth and cause elevated pressures.

That's why max case length and often a trim-to length are standard information given in many manuals for any cartridge listed.

I'm glad you've never had a problem, but I don't think such a cavalier position is good advice for new reloaders.
I didn't think this needed brought up in a reloading thread, as it is basic shooting - NEVER shoot a cartridge that won't chamber easily and smoothly.

Note item 10. Calipers. If they aren't over length, don't screw with them. If they chamber easily, you are not over length for your chamber.

Do you generally machines parts that are in spec?

If you are getting that much stretch, you are likely building case head separation. You need to start looking for reasons why it has stretched that much, not just trim. You are probably running too hot of rounds to get that much stretch. Cases can start stretching well before primer signs of overpressure.

Also a good reason to beware of "once shot" brass - particularly if it was just range brass gathered up. I have had loads that started showing pressure signs, and I throw that brass away. If someone grabs it out of the trash and resells it...

So also add "bent, sharpened paper clip" to the list, far cheaper. I'll bring a demonstrator Saturday.

A tiny bit of stretch is normal, it usually doesn't vary more than manufacturer to manufacturer, and chambering tolerances. BUT how much your rifle tolerates is also up for grabs due to machining tolerances. So it goes back to: If it doesn't chamber easily and without force, don't shoot it.

And always check that. In my old Savage 99 in .250 I loaded to lengths in the manual. First was tight, but I got it in, and the ejected and miced it. and like you said, it would have been WAY over pressure as there was some shoulder collapse. Not brass too long, but older short throat and bullet hit rifling.

Not cavalier at all, just realistic.

If you are getting too much case length, the round won't chamber without force. If you are forcing the chambering, you have bigger problems. And if you have enough of a interference fit that you set back the shoulder ,yes you will get pressure problems, and then yes, you are an idiot for pulling the trigger on that round.

As I stated, as 99.99% of rifle cartridges do not head space on the case mouth, that measurement is not a precise one, unless you are bench rest shooting, shooting over pressure loads that stretch cases, or shooting someone else's over pressures. STandard chambering reamers allow a lot of lee way exactly because of that - it isn't a critical measurement. The SHOULDER or RIM dimension is the critical measurement.

If you shoot a cartridge that you had to force that hard into the chamber, then again, you have far bigger problems than reloading practices. At that point you are resizing the case with the chamber. Which means you are WAY out of spec given machining tolerances.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Headspace_%28firearms%29


This is also the part about not reloading for others - you NEVER know what they have going on. So unless you are exactly duplicating SAAMI for a known bullet (shapes change...) you are walking into trouble, if you can't verify chambering before letting loads go out.
"If the misery of the poor be caused not by the laws of nature, but by our institutions, great is our sin” – Charles Darwin

Re: Getting started in reloading

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ANd it isn't radial clearance (diameter of the neck) - that comes from thinning/thickening of the neck, usually from resizing. It is AXIAL clearance (LENGTH of the neck) that you are measuring with case length.

If you are worrying about radial clearance/interference you need to measure outside diameter of neck after bullet seating.
"If the misery of the poor be caused not by the laws of nature, but by our institutions, great is our sin” – Charles Darwin

Re: Getting started in reloading

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Depends. If you're firing the rounds out of a bolt-action or a single-shot, then neck-sizing can be quite beneficial. However, if we're talking about a semi-auto (some would argue a levergun, too), then full-length sizing is best. This is due to the strong camming that the bolt-action provides. Semi-auto actions might not have quite enough "oomph" to shove something a little oversized (like a fired case) all the way into the chamber. This can mean you don't go fully into battery, but maybe juuust close enough for the firing pin to hit the primer, and as some M1 Garand situations have shown us, that can be destructive to the firearm and possibly the shooter as well. That's one reason I'd feel much better full-length sizing for a semi-auto.
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Re: Getting started in reloading

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DocSkinner wrote:ANd it isn't radial clearance (diameter of the neck) - that comes from thinning/thickening of the neck, usually from resizing. It is AXIAL clearance (LENGTH of the neck) that you are measuring with case length.

If you are worrying about radial clearance/interference you need to measure outside diameter of neck after bullet seating.
Jammed up against the front edge of the neck area of the chamber, the usual angle at the end of the chamber's neck becomes radial interference. The radial interference is what causes the pressure rise.

I don't disagree with you much on the particulars of what is needed most of the time or what is usually happening. I just think that "usually" and "most of the time" are not what education should be built around for an activity that can be lethal with the wrong newbie mistake.

I do shit all of the time that if described to a new reloader with inadequate detail could be a recipe for disaster.

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