To Crimp, or not to Crimp. that is the question .

1
So, for the average plinker of paper targets, would you suggest going through the extra step of crimping or not crimping?

I have found for me and everyday fun shooting, I dont really notice the difference. But if I am trying for extreme accuracy , or want to get the highest pressure and impact power, I can see adding the crimp...

any thoughts?

Discussions ?
This is just my opinion, yours may vary and is no less valid.
- Me -

"I will never claim to be an expert, and it has been my experience that self proclaimed experts are usually self proclaimed."
-Me-

I must proof read more

Re: To Crimp, or not to Crimp. that is the question .

3
Im looking mostly at 45acp, 40 S&W ,8mm, 38sp/357mg, 30-06, 308, 223, 44 mag, 380acp, 22 hornet. all rifles are bolt action..

However, upon some investigation since posting this here, I see that there are more than a few who posed this same question online elsewhere , and almost as many differing answers to it LOL Now Im confused even more.

But so far, Ive not noticed any real difference for killing paper targets at less than 50 yards. Now out past 100 yards and up, I have seen an obvious difference though.
This is just my opinion, yours may vary and is no less valid.
- Me -

"I will never claim to be an expert, and it has been my experience that self proclaimed experts are usually self proclaimed."
-Me-

I must proof read more

Re: To Crimp, or not to Crimp. that is the question .

5
I routinely do a light taper crimp for pretty much everything. Recently in developing a load for my Boberg .45, I have started going with a much tighter crimp, due to the mechanical action of the gun (it grabs the cartridge by the back of the case, pulls it back and then pushes it forward.) But that's a very unusual action, and almost no other handgun I'm familiar with needs that much of a crimp.

But I got in the habit of doing the light crimp because shooting high-power loads in a revolver can cause bullets to shift some. A light crimp will stop that from happening, and so I just incorporated it into my routine.


Jim
James Downey

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Re: To Crimp, or not to Crimp. that is the question .

6
JimDowney wrote:I routinely do a light taper crimp for pretty much everything. Recently in developing a load for my Boberg .45, I have started going with a much tighter crimp, due to the mechanical action of the gun (it grabs the cartridge by the back of the case, pulls it back and then pushes it forward.) But that's a very unusual action, and almost no other handgun I'm familiar with needs that much of a crimp.

But I got in the habit of doing the light crimp because shooting high-power loads in a revolver can cause bullets to shift some. A light crimp will stop that from happening, and so I just incorporated it into my routine.


Jim

I was just reading that. It helps to crimp on larger rounds to keep the others from shifting lose when the gun is fired.

However, if crimping was normally that important, why do they offer reloading sets without the crimp die? that alone to me says its one of those, you can if you want to things.
This is just my opinion, yours may vary and is no less valid.
- Me -

"I will never claim to be an expert, and it has been my experience that self proclaimed experts are usually self proclaimed."
-Me-

I must proof read more

Re: To Crimp, or not to Crimp. that is the question .

7
In many die sets crimping is done by the seating die, either as a separate step, or if you're lazy like I have been known to be, in the seating step.

I wouldn't exactly say it's optional. It depends on the round.

Typically, the dies' instruction set will cover the adjustment process. Personally, I put a roll crimp on revolver rounds, a heavy roll crimp on hot loaded revolvers with slow burning powders, a light taper crimp on semi auto handguns, and no crimp on bottleneck rifles. In most instances, if you get the neck tension right you won't need it. That said, again it depends on the round and the intended use.
Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it everywhere, misdiagnosing the cause, and misapplying the wrong remedies. Marx (Groucho Marx)

Re: To Crimp, or not to Crimp. that is the question .

10
KlrDrvr wrote:In many die sets crimping is done by the seating die, either as a separate step, or if you're lazy like I have been known to be, in the seating step.

I wouldn't exactly say it's optional. It depends on the round.

Typically, the dies' instruction set will cover the adjustment process. Personally, I put a roll crimp on revolver rounds, a heavy roll crimp on hot loaded revolvers with slow burning powders, a light taper crimp on semi auto handguns, and no crimp on bottleneck rifles. In most instances, if you get the neck tension right you won't need it. That said, again it depends on the round and the intended use.
Yeah. That covers it.
The universe - is what it is.

Re: To Crimp, or not to Crimp. that is the question .

11
hillman wrote:
KlrDrvr wrote:In many die sets crimping is done by the seating die, either as a separate step, or if you're lazy like I have been known to be, in the seating step.

I wouldn't exactly say it's optional. It depends on the round.

Typically, the dies' instruction set will cover the adjustment process. Personally, I put a roll crimp on revolver rounds, a heavy roll crimp on hot loaded revolvers with slow burning powders, a light taper crimp on semi auto handguns, and no crimp on bottleneck rifles. In most instances, if you get the neck tension right you won't need it. That said, again it depends on the round and the intended use.
Yeah. That covers it.

best comment Ive seen yet. and Ive been reading on other sites too. short, clear and concise. makes sense. :clap:
This is just my opinion, yours may vary and is no less valid.
- Me -

"I will never claim to be an expert, and it has been my experience that self proclaimed experts are usually self proclaimed."
-Me-

I must proof read more

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