Switching between 38spc and 357...how do you do it

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Ok, ya'll crushed my dreams of a 9mm magnum (but saved me from spending $1,000 on a gun that wouldn't do what I thought it could). ;)

Anyway, looking at getting the 357. My local steel range doesn't allow magnum ammo, so I'll have to load specials when I shoot steel and 357 when I shoot paper.

For those of you who load both, how do you switch between rounds? Two sets of dies?

I have a set of old non-carbide dies for 38/357. I was thinking of buying a set of carbide dies for 357 and using the antique ones for the specials. I have a 6 position press, so I could have all the dies set-up.
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Re: Switching between 38spc and 357...how do you do it

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I have a 4 die set for 38spl/357 but I read someplace (in the forum elsewhere?) that crimping was not necessary. I would go with 4 and crimp until it is shown that uncrimoed rounds do not loosen and the rate of the powder burn is not effected. I crimp all my 357 rounds but plan to cautiously experiment with un crimped rounds.
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Beto in wisconsin

Re: Switching between 38spc and 357...how do you do it

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beaurrr wrote:Don't crimp. You'll get better results with less work and working of the brass.
Try it and see for yourself.
Actually, I have to amend my results. It depends on powder and my old crimped rounds weren't crimped enough for H-110.

When I did that last comparison, the rounds I loaded with H-110 severely underperformed compared to 4229 and the cases were sooty inside and out. I gave the leftover rounds a sixth of a turn more crimp and bam, ~200 fps higher average velocity, less variation in velocity and a cleaner burn.

Results very from powder to powder but don't write crimping off completely.
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Re: Switching between 38spc and 357...how do you do it

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Looks like everyone has already given input, and you're all set to go Senor. To add late info, I have two sets of dies for a single stage lee press. This is for quick change and convenience, but I think you could get away with one set of dies and a few dummy reference rounds so you can "quickly" adjust the bullet seating die when switching between 357 and 38 special. If you hate having to sort out two sets of brass, then I'd just stick with light 357 loads using a fast powder.

As for crimping... yes I still do it. I probably should create a small batch of uncrimped loads and see how they perform as beaurr suggested. I agree though that 38 special probably doesn't need any crimping at all. I mainly use the crimp die as a post-resizer (a final resize, to ensure proper chambering and fit), but I've yet to find any 38 special needing the extra resize step. They all slide into the crimp die like butter.

Re: Switching between 38spc and 357...how do you do it

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I can almost guarantee that no 38 special load is going to need a crimp, although, like Viking alluded, the powder may be the factor that dictates the need for crimping. I would note that H110 behaves unlike other powders.

As for 357 and crimping; I've maxed out the loads for IMR 4227 (17 grains, compressed, with mag primer), and those loads were uncrimped and there was zero bullet pull. Anecdotally at least, I can say the accuracy was 'very good', for whatever that's worth.

I readily concede that since I do not have a chronometer, I am not able to conduct this experiment properly. Clearly, just because the bullet doesn't pull does not necessarily mean that velocity and standard deviations are similar between otherwise identical crimped and uncrimped examples. And without a chronometer, I'll never know.

My point, I guess, is that I suspect that the alleged need and/or benefits of crimping revolver rounds, in general, is probably grossly over stated.


ps. I apologize for the threadjack, SG. :sorry:
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The Swiss are the lovers
The French are the mechanics
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And the Germans are the police

Re: Switching between 38spc and 357...how do you do it

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Good info!

I may just reload for 357, as I found bulk new Remington SJHP 38 +p for about 30 cents a round at LAX.

I don't have a lot of time to reload right now anyway and these rounds would be great for the LCR I'm getting and should do very well on steel coming out of the TRR8.

I'll reserve the handloads for 357. I will probably just buy some spray case lube and play with my steel dies I have for now. If I find I need a crimp, I'll buy a 4 die set.

Anyone got recommendations on spray lube?
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Re: Switching between 38spc and 357...how do you do it

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You can also just buy a spacer washer to fit under the seating die and swap that out when you go between the two calibers. That's a very easy and cheap solution, especially compared to resetting seating and crimp each time.

Frankly, I just gave up reloading .38. I just take .357 cases and load them to .38 standards. That way I don't have to deal with a carbon ring and, most importantly, it makes it way, way easier to sort brass. I'm also selling off any remaining factory .38 loads I have just so the brass doesn't contaminate my gear; it's so damn tedious, and it's already annoying enough to sort .460 Rowland from .45 ACP!

(.22 TCM - 9x19 - .357 Mag - 10mm - .45 ACP - .44 Mag - 7.62x39 - .308 Winchester - 7.62x54R - 12ga)

Re: Switching between 38spc and 357...how do you do it

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senorgrand wrote:
dcramer64 wrote:
senorgrand wrote:
Anyone got recommendations on spray lube?
I use Hornady OneShot. Works great!
Added to my Amazon wishlish. Thanks!!
+1 on the OneShot; that's the only lube I use. One can usually lasts in the neighborhood of 1k-1.5k rounds, depending on how I'm doing it (applying it to the die vs. applying it to the case, as on rifle rounds).

(.22 TCM - 9x19 - .357 Mag - 10mm - .45 ACP - .44 Mag - 7.62x39 - .308 Winchester - 7.62x54R - 12ga)

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