During the winter I bought a Skinner Sights rear Ghost Ring sight that mounts on the receiver of my Henry .375/38SP Big Boy Steel.
After that I discovered the point of aim was changed a bit.
Just got in the Skinner Sights Brass .750 x /1/2" Front Sight and installed it...glad I bought that Williams Drive Punch set.
Weather permitting, I'll go out this week-end and sight it in.
Tinkering is fun!
Re: Been Tinkering
3Crazy cat peekin' through a lace bandana
like a one-eyed Cheshire, like a diamond-eyed Jack
like a one-eyed Cheshire, like a diamond-eyed Jack
Re: Been Tinkering
4Skinner sights are amazing. I think all lever-actions should have them....at least my tired eyes think so.
LGC Texas - Vice President
Re: Been Tinkering
5As soon as I saw the word 'tinkering', I knew this would be good. How about a close up shot of the sights, please?
All religions united with government are more or less inimical to liberty. All, separated from government, are compatible with liberty.-Henry Clay
Both oligarch and tyrant mistrust the people, and therefore deprive them of their arms.—Aristotle
Both oligarch and tyrant mistrust the people, and therefore deprive them of their arms.—Aristotle
Re: Been Tinkering
6Here's some closer shots.
The front sight went in easy, can I or should I use a little Loctite, just so it doesn't shift from shooting?
The front sight went in easy, can I or should I use a little Loctite, just so it doesn't shift from shooting?
Those who make peaceful revolution impossible, make violent revolution inevitable.
Re: Been Tinkering
7Those who make peaceful revolution impossible, make violent revolution inevitable.
Re: Been Tinkering
8It won't hurt but depending on how much you shoot it at any one time the barrel may get hot enough to 'melt' the loctite to the point it won't provide that much hold (and/or make a mess.) Something like Rocksett should provide a hold that won't be affected by barrel temp.MaxwellG wrote: Wed Apr 25, 2018 6:13 pm The front sight went in easy, can I or should I use a little Loctite, just so it doesn't shift from shooting?
Additionally, you can very slightly deform the dovetail in the barrel so that it holds the sight tighter. (Bend the top edges downward with a hammer and steel punch.) Just be careful not to go too far.
He roughed us, then he cuffed us
And he took us off to jail
No picture on a poster, no reward, and no bail
And he took us off to jail
No picture on a poster, no reward, and no bail
Re: Been Tinkering
9Weather for tomorrow is supposed to be 78 degrees.....Yippee sh*t...Goodbye winter!
The DCLETC Range opened up 2 weeks ago to crappy and partly crappy skies with snow/ice showers.
I'll be going out tomorrow to sight in the upgraded Henry .357, I'll also try out the Kimber 1911 that had a Guide Rod failure this winter, with a new one installed.
Ammo - check
Targets - check
LGC Cap - check
Range Report to follow.
The DCLETC Range opened up 2 weeks ago to crappy and partly crappy skies with snow/ice showers.
I'll be going out tomorrow to sight in the upgraded Henry .357, I'll also try out the Kimber 1911 that had a Guide Rod failure this winter, with a new one installed.
Ammo - check
Targets - check
LGC Cap - check
Range Report to follow.
Those who make peaceful revolution impossible, make violent revolution inevitable.
Re: Been Tinkering
10So...it's hitting low and left, needs some adjusting.The other hits are form me just visually correcting.
The front site is quite tall, is it better to file down the front or raise the rear site? No idea how high it goes.
I need to move the front site left as the rear was over a bit, I re-centered it....forgot my dang hammer and brass punch...rats.
At least the Kimber .45 works good after the guide rod failure and replacement and a new spring set.
I do like that Ghost Ring rear site, had one on an SKS years ago.
The front site is quite tall, is it better to file down the front or raise the rear site? No idea how high it goes.
I need to move the front site left as the rear was over a bit, I re-centered it....forgot my dang hammer and brass punch...rats.
At least the Kimber .45 works good after the guide rod failure and replacement and a new spring set.
I do like that Ghost Ring rear site, had one on an SKS years ago.
Those who make peaceful revolution impossible, make violent revolution inevitable.
Re: Been Tinkering
11Mmmmm shiny.
I would suggest raising the rear site as filing is really hard to undo or measure to tight tolerances if you don't have access to a machine shop.
Two warnings: the advice you are about to receive was gained via google fu. Discretion and verification is advised. Also before using threadlocker, if the parts aren't at least partially electrically conductive or magnetic, it wont work without adding something electromagnetic (iron, solder, copper, etc) to trigger a reaction. Anodized aluminum and oxidized metal (IE most barrel finishes) don't like to work. With plastic or polymer, you might as well use superglue.
You could use threadlocker, but I don't know how hot a rifle barrel (or the front sight) gets. According to what I'm reading, most threadlockers break down at about 300 degrees fahrenheit. If you have to make adjustments I wouldn't use anything too strong. namely, use purple threadlocker if you can find it. Red, blue, and green are all basically permanent, with the exception of heating to melt it. There are some that can be broken with a torque wrench or impact hammer but I doubt you want to use that on a firearm. So unless you're willing to take a heat gun to your rifle, be very careful about trying to set any tuning screws/surfaces using threadlocker. If this were just holding a scope mount shut after getting It level, that would be another story. You're talking about a barrel mounted front sight.
This said, I also have little experience trying to lock threads already in place, only screwing in prepared screws. If you can get it set properly and seal it, great.
I would suggest raising the rear site as filing is really hard to undo or measure to tight tolerances if you don't have access to a machine shop.
Two warnings: the advice you are about to receive was gained via google fu. Discretion and verification is advised. Also before using threadlocker, if the parts aren't at least partially electrically conductive or magnetic, it wont work without adding something electromagnetic (iron, solder, copper, etc) to trigger a reaction. Anodized aluminum and oxidized metal (IE most barrel finishes) don't like to work. With plastic or polymer, you might as well use superglue.
You could use threadlocker, but I don't know how hot a rifle barrel (or the front sight) gets. According to what I'm reading, most threadlockers break down at about 300 degrees fahrenheit. If you have to make adjustments I wouldn't use anything too strong. namely, use purple threadlocker if you can find it. Red, blue, and green are all basically permanent, with the exception of heating to melt it. There are some that can be broken with a torque wrench or impact hammer but I doubt you want to use that on a firearm. So unless you're willing to take a heat gun to your rifle, be very careful about trying to set any tuning screws/surfaces using threadlocker. If this were just holding a scope mount shut after getting It level, that would be another story. You're talking about a barrel mounted front sight.
This said, I also have little experience trying to lock threads already in place, only screwing in prepared screws. If you can get it set properly and seal it, great.