S&W Model 13

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At the black powder shoot today, a guy had a S&W Model 13 with a 4" barrel in fine shape for 475 smackers. Anyone know much about this gun? Have one? Like it? Hate it?

I've have my eye our for a decent 357 DA, seeing where this one might line up.
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Re: S&W Model 13

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dpfeifer wrote:At the black powder shoot today, a guy had a S&W Model 13 with a 4" barrel in fine shape for 475 smackers. Anyone know much about this gun? Have one? Like it? Hate it?

I've have my eye our for a decent 357 DA, seeing where this one might line up.
The 13 is a K-frame revolver. The perceived wisdom is that the K-frame isn't really stout enough for shooting a lot of full power 357 mag loads. I don't know if this is really true. But I do know that I looked at one that had a crack at the 6 o'clock position in the forcing cone. So, check it carefully, and perhaps shoot mainly lighter loads.
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Chamber's empty, magazine's full, safety's broken.

Re: S&W Model 13

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I adore mine. The conventional wisdom is that 158s are pretty much fine, but that 125 and lighter bullets hit the forcing cone fast enough to crack it. The dimensions that make it potentially weak from heavy numbers of light bullet magnums are also those that make it wonderfully handy.
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Re: S&W Model 13

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I understand it the same as Marlene stated - the problem with .357 K frames is .125gr full power loads, they go too fast and impact the forcing cone too hard. 158gr bullets don't seem to have the problem.
When only cops have guns, it's called a police state.
I carry due to toxic masculinity.......just other people's.

Re: S&W Model 13

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Sweetest magnum revolver ever made by any company.

The fixed sights are regulated to 158 grain bullets anyway, stick to 158 grains and you can go as hot as the data allows without problems. Do not shoot 125s or, worse, lighter. Make sure it's not already cracked. I strongly advise some kind of rubber stocks - the light weight that makes it a joy to carry makes it bite the hand a little harder. Bill Jordan advised police shooters when it came out to practice with .38 special and carry Magnum loads; I'd say use the load you plan to carry and dress the revolver appropriately.

Buy a copy of the Jerry Kuhnhausen S&W Revolver book. Even if you never do a touch of gunsmithing, it will help you understand the weapon far better.

I paid ~$300 for this one, my EDC. I found a spare hammer to trim because I don't believe in single action on a carry piece. DAO because if I pull that trigger I want to f**king mean it.

I've churned through many handguns but since I bought this one I have not bought any others. I do not expect to ever have a different carry revolver unless I find the same thing with a 3" barrel that's ex-FBI.

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Re: S&W Model 13

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The phenomena of cracked forcing cones is caused by the same thing that causes the cutting in the top of the cylinder window in the frame. Flame cutting which is caused by the short bullets of 125grs and smaller pushed at high velocity. That brief nano second when the bullet leaves the case enables a gush of hot gas to rush past the bullet because the bullet has not sealed the throat, it enters an oxygen rich environment and will cut the 6 oclock position on the barrel throat and cut a slot across the top strap because there is no place for it to go. K frames are great 38s and for a reloader just reload 158 gr bullets at about 1000 fps and the gun will last a lifetime. 357 "special" loads are great fun, my fav is 4.5 grs of red dot and a 158 gr. lead bullet. Very accurate at 50yds.

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