Help make Flintlock decision.

1
What I want, and what I can afford is always my problem. I'll never be able to afford a custom flintlock, and rarely see either custom, or used production in our local stores. If I do see one, they look like you might get one shot out of them if you're lucky. The nicest production one I've seen is from Tennessee Valley Muzzleloaders, but even that after a few select choices will be 1500-2000. So....CVA, Traditions, Lyman, or Pedersoli. I'm leaning to the browned barrel on the Pedersoli Frontier .50 ($750). Pedersoli's locks are not exactly the best, but the overall gun is considered pretty good, and accurate. Later on, I could replace the lock, and still come out cheaper than the TVM, just not as pretty.
Torn on the caliber of the rifle, .32/36 is cheaper to run, but from what I hear gums up quicker than larger caliber, plus no chance at larger kills if necessary. 45 seems underpowered for larger game, 50 seems goldilock, 54, well, no Elk or moose round here.
Wisdom and advice........?

Re: Help make Flintlock decision.

3
The issue with locks can in come cases be worked around. Some of the cheaper locks just need heating up the cocks and bending them so they strike the frizzen correctly. I have read where some are so out of line that they will shatter flints with the first shot. Also the hardness of the frizzen is also critical, many can be vastly improved by removal and then hardend by heating till they are no longer magnetic and then dunked in a can of kasinit then reheated and quenched in automatic transmission fluid. That will make it hard as glass. With any flintlock the position of the vent hole to the priming pan should be in whats called the sunrise position, you want the hole to be centered to the pan and looking at it from the side you want half of the vent hole above the edge of the pan. I built a rifle based on the Bivins bicentenial Lancaster rifle. He was commissioned by the state of Penn back in the 70s to produce rifles on the legendary Isaac Haines pattern of mid 18th century Lancaster. It has a Chambers lock that has a lock time as fast as any percussion lock and a flint will last for dozens of strikes before changing. There is no real cheap way to go with a really high quality flintlock. To hunt with a flint requires a need to satisfy a thirst for history. The first thing you learn is that our hunting ancestors where strictly fair weather hunters. Just high humidity will ruin priming powder, turn it into black goo.

Re: Help make Flintlock decision.

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Yes I read about hardenening the frizzen...seemed like the first thing to do. The Frontier lock is supposed to be a bit better than other Pedersolis, but sears, and springs are not always factory perfect. Sort of hit or miss. The TVMs sounded perfect with a Siler Lock, but add in a better stock, a swamped barrel, and pretty quick you're talking real money...We'll have to see what strange pick I make.


eelj wrote: Wed Apr 10, 2019 1:10 pm The issue with locks can in come cases be worked around. Some of the cheaper locks just need heating up the cocks and bending them so they strike the frizzen correctly. I have read where some are so out of line that they will shatter flints with the first shot. Also the hardness of the frizzen is also critical, many can be vastly improved by removal and then hardend by heating till they are no longer magnetic and then dunked in a can of kasinit then reheated and quenched in automatic transmission fluid. That will make it hard as glass.

Re: Help make Flintlock decision.

8
I would not be surprised if R E Davis makes a replacement trigger for that lock. I have a Davis double set trigger on my Lancaster and it's a great trigger. If you are on the fence about a swamped barrel don't ever pick up a rifle made with one. You will never consider a straight barrel again. They balance so well it seems to weigh half of the actual weight. TVM from what I remember offers kits that range from do it all yourself to just the finish work where it is all shaped and fully inletted. When these kits are sold as 90% inletted they fail to say that the last 10% is the hardest and most critical part of the job.

Re: Help make Flintlock decision.

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You hunting with this thing? Find a used TC Renegade in 50 or 54 (whichever you find). It came in percussion too, so don't get confused.

There are more historical guns for sure, but it is a damn fine shooter with good usable sights for cheap. Lock and barrel upgrades are out there for it, but not needed. 54 is not overkill for deer.
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Re: Help make Flintlock decision.

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I recently had the pleasure of firing a Kentucky long rifle flint lock, while standing inside Fort Boonesborough. I could almost feel Daniel Boone standing next to me. Someday I hope to have a nice flintlock.
All religions united with government are more or less inimical to liberty. All, separated from government, are compatible with liberty.-Henry Clay
Both oligarch and tyrant mistrust the people, and therefore deprive them of their arms.—Aristotle

Re: Help make Flintlock decision.

20
rockyriverleather wrote: Wed Apr 10, 2019 11:22 pm Yep, Hiker, it's a disease. Sorry you have it.
Over the years I've heard stories of shooters buying a single little black powder gun, just out of curiosity. Within a year they are thinking about selling all their modern guns so they can get more black powder guns.
All religions united with government are more or less inimical to liberty. All, separated from government, are compatible with liberty.-Henry Clay
Both oligarch and tyrant mistrust the people, and therefore deprive them of their arms.—Aristotle

Re: Help make Flintlock decision.

21
When you get the rifle and are ready to shoot it you will need powder ball and patching. I have found 3FG to be my favorite. I use it in both my 50 cal cap lock and my 58 cal flinter both for main charge and for priming. Pillow ticking works great for patching and buying the proper thickness to match the ball is very important. As for lube do not buy any with a petroleum base, lubes made from a mixture of rendered animal fats and bees wax are the only way to go. remember the major component in black powder is sulpher, when sulpher and petroleum are mixed together and heated to 550 deg it turns into asphalt. TOW in Elk River Mn sells a very good lube made from mink oil. They also sell very good English flints knapped and sized for the lock.

Re: Help make Flintlock decision.

22
All good advice. Thanks. TOW is on my list first, after I actually get the rifle, and put the calipers to it. Pictures and facts from the owner aren't great. Not dishonest, I just think he's kinda oblivious to facts.

eelj wrote: Thu Apr 11, 2019 11:01 am When you get the rifle and are ready to shoot it you will need powder ball and patching. I have found 3FG to be my favorite. I use it in both my 50 cal cap lock and my 58 cal flinter both for main charge and for priming. Pillow ticking works great for patching and buying the proper thickness to match the ball is very important. As for lube do not buy any with a petroleum base, lubes made from a mixture of rendered animal fats and bees wax are the only way to go. remember the major component in black powder is sulpher, when sulpher and petroleum are mixed together and heated to 550 deg it turns into asphalt. TOW in Elk River Mn sells a very good lube made from mink oil. They also sell very good English flints knapped and sized for the lock.

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