I have a simplex style from Fort Knox lag bolted to the studs in a corner of my closet that holds my shield (CCW) and m&p9 (the one my wife knows how to operate). I believe it was around $250. Someone would have to tear the wall out to take it, it's pretty heavy duty and would be very difficult to pry open. https://www.amazon.com/Fort-Knox-Person ... B015D82XAS
I have a shitty one in the car that could be priced open with a screwdriver that I don't recommend. Spend the money.
Bolt it to the floor. If you have space under the house, use carriage bolts with the round part underneath, bolt in the safe. If cement, you have to anchor it into the 'crete using a masonry bit and cement made for the purpose. Teen boys are hella clever.
CDFingers
Turn on channel six, the President comes on the news,
Says, "I get no satisfaction, that's why I sing the blues."
You know you're going to get a rifle, so it has to be tall enough for that. Haven't yet seen an under bed rifle safe, so likely wall. Get a dial combo lock, not an electric one. Forget to change batteries and you go to the back up key, which you forget where you stashed. Combo is best because you can put a piece of paper in a book that only you know about in case the combo slips your mind.
CDFingers
Turn on channel six, the President comes on the news,
Says, "I get no satisfaction, that's why I sing the blues."
I'm kinda set on the simplex lock. I have a rifle safe elsewhere. I'm thinking wall safe, just because it's less intrusive to my better half's feng shui.
Grand Poobah and Bass Player for the Conspiracy of Weenies.
I'm kinda set on the simplex lock. I have a rifle safe elsewhere. I'm thinking wall safe, just because it's less intrusive to my better half's feng shui.
I second that, and this is a wise decision. It's gonna be a bit of a pain in the ass to mount, cutting out drywall between the studs and whatnot, but once it's in there it's gonna be nearly impossible to rip out without having access to the inside of the safe.
And simplex is always the way to go. Electronics fail, simplex locks do not. They're time tested and downright impossible to hack.
V-Line is a solid manufacturer, buy with confidence, install with care, and sleep well at night
Last edited by kronkmusic on Fri Mar 20, 2020 10:45 am, edited 1 time in total.
OK, I looked through my closet. I'm a little concerned that I don't have an easily-accessed 16" stud gap in there. I might have to go with an underbed model. I have a concrete foundation. Luckily, I already have a hammer drill. Any recommendations on hardware to bolt this bastard down with?
Grand Poobah and Bass Player for the Conspiracy of Weenies.
A cement anchor is a thick lead sleeve that you pound down into a too-big hole, and then you screw a 3/8" lag bolt down in. You'll do it at least in two places. Or there are seven or eight products that are like epoxy for concrete where you drill a big hole, put in the wet goo, then feed your bolt down in. Glued in pretty solid.
CDFingers
Turn on channel six, the President comes on the news,
Says, "I get no satisfaction, that's why I sing the blues."
OK, I looked through my closet. I'm a little concerned that I don't have an easily-accessed 16" stud gap in there. I might have to go with an underbed model. I have a concrete foundation. Luckily, I already have a hammer drill. Any recommendations on hardware to bolt this bastard down with?
Be sure you're not drilling into any slab foundation water plumbing lines. Use large fender washers under nut to help prevent prying from bolts. When hammering into hole be sure nut just below top to protect threads. Measure twice on bolt centers before drilling and installing - once in hole, even before wedging, no going back.
"Being Republican is more than a difference of opinion - it's a character flaw."
"The greatest threat facing the United States is its own president." David Rothkopf, WaPo
