Re: How to taper crimp

4
Basically you run a sample, examine it, reset the die, run another sample. Sometimes you seat the bullet higher or lower, sometimes you adjust the die. You'll kill a half dozen pieces of brass, but you'll find the setting, then you tighten the die. It's good to have a bullet puller. Having powder in the sample helps the bullet come out easier. And there's always the joy of finding the perfect setting with your first round already done. ;-)

CDFingers
Crazy cat peekin' through a lace bandana
like a one-eyed Cheshire, like a diamond-eyed Jack

Re: How to taper crimp

5
Many variations as to how to go about this. Mostly dependent on die function and press type. If seating and crimp are done in different dies, or at different times, it's fairly quick to get just what you're after. When done as a single operation, It can be a bit fiddley if you're a perfectionist. If you make your adjustments on live rounds, unless they are unsafe otherwise, it's less messy to just shoot them and see what the paper has to say about them. Uneven length -various headstamp -unchamfered- new vs #? fired brass will affect the final product, as well as how much play is in your tooling. Sizing - expanding - flairing, along with which bullet you use will affect bullet pull and may change the amount and or type of crimp you select.

Load your revolver full, shoot all but one. examine that unfired round to see if the bullet is where you put it or has moved. Some powders require a better grip than others. New brass is best for those loads.

There's an encyclopedia written on this somewhere.

Re: How to taper crimp

6
Lee dies? I taper crimp with .45 ACP, and I've tried it with both .38/357, .44 Spl/Mag, and .45 Colt. Here's the deal. All you want to do is flatten out the belling. That's it.

Here's how I do it, using the combination bullet seater and crimper die. Since I've been using the 3-stage Pro 1000 for years, with no room for a Factory Crimp Die, I had to figure out how to do this.

1.) Screw your die in per the directions, and then back it out a good full turn.

2.) Seat your bullet to the correct depth. That means go ahead and adjust your seater plug, bit by bit, until you get your bullet into the case enough.

3.) Back out your bullet seater a good, long ways. I use about 8-10 turns. This is so you avoid pushing the now-correctly-seated bullet any further in by the next step.

4.) Now, raise your round, i. e. lower the handle, all the way, so the round's at max height.

5.) With the round at max height, i. e. handle's all the way down, screw in your die until you feel it just touch the round. Remember, your bullet seater plug's waaaaay high because of Step 3, so don't worry about pushing your bullet in any further. We'll get to re-adjusting your bullet seater plug in a moment.

6.) Now, lower your round just a bit and screw in your seater/crimper die maybe a quarter of a turn. This should lower the "crimp lip" inside the die just a bit.

7.) Raise your round all the way. You should feel something.

8.) Lower your round and have a look. If the case mouth is still belled out a bit, then try another quarter of a turn of the die and raise the round again.

9.) Keep doing this until the case mouth is dead-on straight. This is a proper "taper crimp". It's really not a "crimp"; they call it that because all you're doing is flattening out the bell from when you seated the die. Some may argue that you can push it in a little bit more, but I never do that.

10.) Try chambering this round in your revolver or levergun to make sure everything fits right. If it does, you're ready for the final step. If not, crimp it just a hair more, using an eighth of a turn each time. It doesn't take much.

11.) Now, once your round chambers freely, it's time to set the bullet seater plug back to where it should be. Put your round back into the seater/crimper die and raise it all the way (i. e. lower that handle). It shouldn't "crimp" anymore because the die is now properly adjusted for crimp. While holding that handle down and thus the round up, go ahead and twist your bullet seater plug back down until you juuuust feel it touching. Tighten it an eensy-bit more until you feel just a bit of snugness.

12.) Wash your hands and enjoy a sip of your favourite beverage, 'cause you're done. :-)
"SF Liberal With A Gun + Free Software Advocate"
http://www.sanfranciscoliberalwithagun.com/
http://www.liberalsguncorner.com/
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Re: How to taper crimp

8
I taper crimp everything I load - .32 acp, 380 acp, 9mm, .38 Special, and .357 mag. Super precise explanation, Cowboy and *Thank You*!

VooDoo
Tyrants disarm the people they intend to oppress.

I am sworn to support and defend the Constitution of the United States against all enemies, foreign and domestic.

Re: How to taper crimp

9
Quite welcome.

I should mention, though, that if you're shooting a tube-fed lever gun, e. g. Henry Big Boy, Winchester 92 or 1894, Marlin 1895, etc., you *REALLY* want to go ahead and roll-crimp, and you want to be using a bullet that actually has a cannelure or crimp groove. This is to prevent bullet setback when feeding the next round.

However, for revolvers or non-tube-fed rifles, e. g. Ruger's 77/357 or 96/44 models, a taper crimp is fine. Bullet pull-out is the concern in a revolver, and therefore the preventative measure is proper neck tension. Even then, it only really matters for really powerful rounds like the .44 Magnum and stronger.
"SF Liberal With A Gun + Free Software Advocate"
http://www.sanfranciscoliberalwithagun.com/
http://www.liberalsguncorner.com/
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